Review Author

Luke Abrahams

‘Happening’ Newsletter Editor & Contributing Editor

‍Castello di Casole, a Belmond Hotel, really is a thing of a Tuscan fairytale. The location—on top of a hill near the medieval village of Casole d’Elsa—is visually a ten, and the views from the castle of the cypress-lined countryside roads and valleys are so psychedelically poetic, not even The Romantics could scribe them in prose. Yes, it is the quintessential Tuscan estate, complete with vineyards, woods, and a demiborgo. It’s total honeymoon core, and you’ll be hard pressed to find something as quaint and manicured in this part of hilly Toscana. 

Castles of this calibre are a rare find in this part of the world. Most are in ruins or are so unloved, they have just remained abandoned. Despite it being part of a luxury conglomerate (hello LVMH), the refurb has respected the artisanal elements of the land and Italian design. Once owned by the family of Luchino Visconti, the original stone facades—some dating back to the tenth century—still remain intact, and all the outside spaces have gracefully and elegantly retained their terracotta and honey-hued Italianate star appeal. The rose garden, home to 6,000 blooms and one of the hotel’s ambitious Covid projects managed by just five estate gardeners, is also a stellar Casole style cue. 

The hotel is more than just being pretty, though. General Manager Alessandro Baccarelli describes it as more of a “holistic retreat” as opposed to a showy stay. Having joined the team back in 2023 from a stint in Asia, his vision was to “reinforce and refocus on holistic being” with a focus on the joys of “slow living and slow luxe.” While there’s an emphasis on all the glitzy food and experiences—from stargazing to tours of Chianti country—Umbrian-born Baccarelli’s main aim was to create a place that respects “time and the art of reconnection.” There’s a clever mix of wellness and agriculture here. The estate produces its own olive oil, wine, veg, gin botanicals, and they are even working on making their own kombucha. Plus, with a tennis club and growing underground spa on the horizon, Casole is more about evoking a sense of lifestyle over its amenity credentials. It’s by no means perfect yet—but there is a vision here, and for a big brand like Belmond, one that does not feel corporate or fake. 

The rooms and suites are what Gretchen Weiners would dub, fetch. Country house cottage core with modcons best sums them up, and unlike other big brands sweeping through Italy right now, nothing here seems aesthetically out of place or alien. Dubbed a reinterpretation of Tuscan style, there was nothing remotely polemical bar the odd contemporary cabinet or bathtub. We spent the night in room 21, one of the recently restored Tinaia Suites. It’s a mix of old and new. Curio cabinets house bottles of red and white, and bespoke Dedar fabrics and Lora Piana textiles give the roomy space a colourful injection of personality. Low beams give you the feeling of snugness, and the king-size bed delivers a good night’s sleep as well as a smile. Best feature? The windows. All face the valley, and come sunrise, deliver stellar panoramas from the couch or roomy bathtub. 

As for the grub, it’s fancy but stays true to the region. The tasting menu at Tosca is well worth splashing out on and includes everything from ravioli to roasted rabbit and lamb with scampi and leeks (it strangely works, trust me). The wine pairing is also worth it. Expect local bottles you’ll be hard pressed to find on any other hotel menu in the area. If fancy isn’t your thing, head to Restaurant Emporio del Castello for a relaxed pizza served trattoria-style. 

Refreshingly, there’s lots to do here. Complimentary excursions include hikes on foot and by e-bike in the neighbourhood or lessons in making the perfect batch of focaccia. If conditions are right, stargazing here is a real treat. Casole dons the “I Cieli più belli d’Italia” quality astrotourism certification, which means it is one of the best places in Italy to view the night sky. There’s also an outdoor movie night, swimming pool, and truffle hunting, or, do as I did and just skip it all to perch on the love seat and watch the sunset over the horizon. Bliss. 

Fast Facts

Location: Casole d’Elsa, Tuscany, Italy

Rating: Five-star

The vibe:  Holistic retreat with a smidge of Medieval cottage core. 

Food + Drink:  Posh or to the point. You can have fancy veal or a pizza. You decide. 

Amenities: Bar, restaurant, pool, spa, tennis club

Our Favourite Thing About the Hotel:  The rose garden. I spent ages sniffing until my hay fever said no more. 

What’s Nearby? A few hilltop towns. The Chianti countryside is a 30-minute or so drive away, and if you are driving, Siena is worth a day trip, too. 

Any personal neighbourhood recs?  No, you go here to stay here. 

Rooms: 39 suites and two private Villas

Pricing: From about 1,700 USD per night, including breakfast.

Closest Airport: Florence or Pisa international airports. Transfers can be arranged on request.