Review Author

Luke Abrahams

‘Happening’ Newsletter Editor & Contributing Editor

This is the most exclusive hotel in Italy, headed up by a legendary Italian hotelier who basically introduced a sense of style to the boutique hotel space. Yes, Marie-Louise Sciò is considered as legendary as the Slim Aarons portraits that adorn the walls of her family-run powerhouse Hotel Il Pellicano. And through her own individual sense of fashionista panache, she’s created a concept revered, as well as infinitely duplicated on the Italian boot, as well as throughout Europe. She is, perhaps, one of Italy’s greatest tastemakers. Inkinlings of her style are spread throughout: there’s Issimo, her boutique empire of artisanal fashion brands, collabs, and totems, plus the Pelli Club, a modus operandum of chic al fresco dining and spritz sipping. 

The whole thing began life as a private home back in 1965 when British ex-fighter pilot Michael Graham and his socialite American wife Patrica snapped up this prime slice of real estate on the Monte Argentario peninsula. It was eventually sold to Roberto Sciò and the rest is in the coffee table book—Kirk Douglas, Robert Mitchum, Sophia Loren, Harry Styles, they all came, and the myth was born. Style-wise, it’s the epitome of a Med escape. The position of the place is stunning, overlooking a private cove and the hotel’s legendary beach club. La Dolce Vita is a very part of the vibe. The heels are high, the loafers elaborate, and the gowns are glitterball classy. Throwbacks to its history are omnipresent throughout. Beautifully framed shots around the lobby, bar, and main reception area allude to the hotel’s long-lasting Slim Aarons trip tick feel, and the storied saltwater pool, home to the odd Hollywood and music star over the years, is still very much the spot to detach and unplug. 

The real beauty of the place, though, lies in its simplicity. The hotel understands that anyone and everyone who comes here has everything in the world, and as a result, the rooms are classic and refrained as opposed to being stuffy and unnecessarily over the top. The odd view has canopies, and in the newer suites, you will find all the usual millennial mod cons (entertainment, basically), but nothing ever comes across as elaborately strained or vulgar. Tuscan tones—terracotta, reds, greens, and the odd dash of yellow—rule the paintwork, and if you are in the main house, most rooms come with a private terrace. At first, you might not vibe with it, but when you wake up in the morning and stare at the sunrise over the bay, you’ll get why the simple life reigns absolute at The Pelli. 

The food has been hit and miss during my various stays at Il Pellicano, and aside from the menu’s high price tags—60 euros for a pizza margherita is a stretch— everything I popped in my mouth delivered on flavour and variety this visit. For fuss, there’s a Michelin-starred affair at restaurant Il Pellicano, but if you prefer something more casual like moi, the Pelligrill delivers on all counts. Fresh fish, a good parmigiana, and homemade pasta are all knockout guest favourites. Breakfast is a slimmed-down affair. Italian cheeses and artisanal meats come as standard, and the pastry station is a real calorific highlight. Cocktails? Obviously. Long-term legend and bar manager Federico Morosi makes a mean Negroni and, if the peaches are in season, a rather lovely Bellini, too. 

As for R&R, people come here to chill and be seen. Il Pellicano is the poster girl for Il Dolce Far Niente, so just shush and embrace it. If boredom hits, the Issimo boutique is well worth a gawp, as is a mani-pedi in the spa. The Santa Maria Novella products are lush as per. 

Fast Facts

Location: Porto Ercole, Tuscany, Italy

Rating: Five-star

The vibe: It’s the home of the yachties and the glitterati. Pack a suit and some lovely shoes.  

Food + Drink: La Dolce Vita. All the Italian classics and more. 

Amenities: Bar, restaurant, pool, spa, tennis court

Our Favourite Thing About the Hotel:  Il Dolce Far Niente. Enough said. 

What’s Nearby? The sea. Go swim in it. 

Any personal neighborhood recs?  No, you go here to stay here. 

Rooms: 50

Pricing: From about 4,800 USD per night, including breakfast.

Closest Airport: Florence or Pisa international airports. Transfers can be arranged on request. 

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