Italy's hotel royal family's coveted Lake Como recs

Welcome back to Happenings. Today, editor Luke Abrahams brings you ultra-coveted Lake Como tips from one of Italy’s most storied hotelier families, a Greek stay teaming up with an art-driven brand, and a rant about airplane bathrooms—plus more.

OMG, devo. Japan is like one of my favorite places on earth, so when I found out it was going to be extra spenny to visit, my heart sank. If you have never been, think valleys peppered with cherry blossoms (seasonal, of course), temple galore, excellent shopping and some of the best cuisine on earth. All this fabulousness, however, means one thing: tourists. The country has seen an unexpected boom in visitors, which has put a lot of added pressure onto its streets and world-famous attractions. To help curb it, the Japanese government has announced that entry and exit fees will go up for tourists visiting Japan next year. By how much? Read the deep dive here. Don’t you just love clickbait?

Have you ever been on a full Eurostar? It’s horrid, and with travel etiquette on the decline, say goodbye to working and snoozing on the 6 am to Paris Gare du Nord from London’s St. Pancras International. To give us all a bit more personal space (and to make more money), the cross-channel rail operator has confirmed it will order up to 50 double-decker trains from manufacturer Alstom, eventually increasing the size of its fleet by nearly a third. Don’t get too excited, though, because the new shiny locomotives won’t be on the tracks until 2031. If you are a train geek like me and want to know the ins and outs, our friends at the BBC serve all the goss here.

If you have been reading my rambles in these newsletters for some time, you will know I am quite a fan of all things space. If, like me, the sight of the Aurora Borealis gives you goosebumps, y’all will be pleased to know that you do not actually have to leave America to see them. IcelandAir analyzed TikTok data and oodles of travel guides to determine which Northern Lights hotspots in the U.S. have stayed under the radar for yonks, and as a result, revealed all the hotspots in a snazzy post. Midwestern states make the most appearances on the least-mentioned list of any U.S. region, with Idaho, Minnesota, and Wisconsin topping it. For the rest, hit up this handy guide.

Oh, look! A new section. I do love a local, and quite literally, when you’ve got the Queen of Lake Como (and her family) giving you the lowdown on where’s best to hit up on the lake, you know you have scored. And with Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Villa Sola Cabiati, and Passalacqua under her belt, you know this girl’s got taste. Anyway, enough from me. Valentina and Mamma Antonella, take it from here.

Luke: Name your five favourite restaurants on Lake Como.

Valentina: I don’t like to be auto-referential, but my absolute favorite is Da Giacomo al Lago, our poolside restaurant at Grand Hotel Tremezzo: the entire lakescape at your feet, the 1960s Riviera vibe with accents in our signature orange and the iconic fish and seafood dishes that made Giacomo a star in Milan. Another of my favorite spots is La Tirlindana, which sits on a tranquil bay known as Zoca de l’Oli overlooking the only island in Lake Como, Isola Comacina. There is nothing quite like arriving by boat directly at the restaurant’s jetty—or their amazing homemade lemon ravioli.

Antonella: For a stylish night out, Teatro Sociale in Como is an absolute gem, a jewel-box theater that recalls the timeless charm of a “Little La Scala”, but on a more intimate, magical scale. It’s the kind of place where you sip champagne during intermission and share a moment with Como’s most elegant crowd. After the curtain falls, you can continue the evening at Ristorante in Teatro, just a short stroll away.

But the kind of place that captures what I really love is La Rana: authentic, warm, and deliciously unpretentious. It’s a bit of a family ritual; when we move to our home in Tremezzo for the summer, we love going there together. I’ve always been drawn to simple, genuine food, and nothing beats their Vianese — a “caprese” made with the tomatoes from their garden and their own cheese produced in Viano (where the restaurant is).

Luke: If there was one place you would tell guests to visit on the lake, where would it be, and why?

Valentina: We both agree that you can’t leave without visiting Villa Balbianello, it’s nothing short of magical. From the cinematic loggia that seems to float above the lake, to the lush gardens and the private museum dedicated to the life of explorer Count Monzino…

Antonella: Yes every detail speaks of wonder, adventure, and timeless beauty.

Luke: Name your go-to bar. Why do you keep going back?

Valentina: I love Da Luciano in Laglio—an old butcher shop with a warm and retro soul. A family-run gem where you instantly feel at home, a place to savour true Italian tradition while enjoying a stunning view over Lake Como.

Antonella: My ideal afternoon is going to my best friend’s house and drinking a good coffee while chatting and relaxing in a cozy living room.

Luke: Sense of Lake is a beautiful triumph. Take us through its curation and the selection process.

Antonella: Thank you! Sense of Lake was born from our desire to encourage our guests to take a piece of our world home with them—not just a souvenir, but a story. Each piece is handpicked by us together so it’s deeply personal. Curating a collection of Italian craftsmanship evokes the very essence of our properties - where beauty is intentional, tradition is honored, and every detail carries meaning. It’s our way of extending the experience beyond our corner of Lake Como and advocating for the heritage we so proudly represent.

Luke: You all know the lake better than anyone else. Can you tell us the most underrated spots that tourists haven’t discovered yet?

Valentina: I would say Brunate, the so-called Balcony of the Alps, is the most underrated destination within Como. To get there, you take this antique funicular railway—a feat of engineering that has been going strong since 1894—and rise 3,000 feet above the hustle and bustle of the Como town. The village of Brunate is filled with charming Art Deco villas that were summer residences of turn-of-the-century industrialists, and in just 30 minutes, you can walk to the monumental lighthouse built in honor of the city’s famous son, Alessandro Volta. From there, the birds’ eye views of the lake, the mountains, and even Milan when the skies are clear are second to none.

Antonella: One of the places dearest to my heart is the Chilometro della Conoscenza, a scenic walk connecting the historic Villa Olmo and the beautiful Villa del Grumello in Como. It’s a journey through nature, art, and history. You walk past centuries-old trees, charming greenhouses, and breathtaking lake views, with each step offering a quiet moment of reflection.

Luke: Who is a local talent the world should know about. What makes them stand out to you?

Antonella: A local talent the world should definitely know about is Davide Van De Sfroos. He’s a singer-songwriter from Lake Como who has a unique gift for storytelling through music. His songs, written in the local dialect, beautifully capture the soul of our people and our traditions, often with humor, nostalgia, and deep emotional resonance. He can turn everyday life into poetry, preserving the region's cultural identity while creating something universally moving.

Luke: Where do you all go to escape on the lake? Why do you find this place so special?

Valentina: If you want to escape the frenzy of everyday life, climb up to San Martino, high above Tremezzo, and you’ll find a small church that looks as though it were gently placed on a rock ledge by some divine hand. It’s surrounded by untouched nature, and once you reach the top, a sense of calm wraps around you. The view is absolutely breathtaking—the lake and mountains stretching as far as the eye can see —and, for a moment, everything else fades away.

Luke: We love all things Italian. Where do you shop and why do you keep going back?

Antonella: My favorite shop in Como is undoubtedly Felice Gabaglio. It’s not somewhere I go every day, but when I do, it’s always special. The owner, Marina, is a very dear friend of mine, but I say this with complete objectivity: their collection is truly remarkable. From contemporary designs to rare antique treasures, each piece is a celebration of Italian craftsmanship and timeless beauty.

Valentina: Moresi, a very classy, super chic, knitwear-only shop on our fashion mile, Via Vittorio Emanuele II, is by far my favorite spot in Como. They design and produce their own collection, made with beautiful colors in cotton for spring and summer, and the softest cashmere for fall/winter. My wardrobe is full of Moresi in every season, and this is my go-to shop, I suggest to every friend and guest asking me something unique and special to take home.

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Listen, y’all are nasty. Every time I have flown recently, no matter the airline (though some are far better), the toilets have been left in a disgusting state. And get this: nobody cleans them for the entire flight. I once asked cabin crew on a British carrier why they don’t give the bathrooms a spruce-up once airborne, and the reply was blunt and simple: “We are here for your health and safety, sir.” To which I replied, “So shit on the walls is not a health hazard?” I rest my case. Discuss.

Our weekly column from hospitality-obsessed city native Megan Shelton unveils the gotta-be-there spots across the Big Apple that are anything BUT basic.

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