HOTEL SNAPSHOT

Carmel-by-the-Sea is loved by so many for its quirky, bohemian charm, and La Playa is a hotel that embodies that spirit so perfectly. Nestled in the heart of the village, surrounded by salt-soaked trees and off-beat architecture, the historic property was recently renovated to embrace its Spanish Colonial character and reclaim its status as the Grande Dame of Carmel.

The luxury here is effortless, and not at all showy or shouty. Champagne is served each morning with breakfast, but without fanfare, and chauffeurs nonchalantly wait to deliver you around the village to visit the shops or catch a dinner reservation. During the day, guests are encouraged to lounge around the beautifully designed gardens, challenge each other to games of giant chess, or relax by the pool. Sunset cocktails can be sipped on patio furniture or on the elevated terrace, where fire pits replace the evening glow as the night falls.

Design & Character

First built in 1905 as a seaside manse by artist Christian Jorgensen for his wife, chocolate heiress Angela Ghirardelli. La Playa became a hotel just 12 years later and gradually expanded as the decades passed. Fun fact: this was where Steve Jobs unveiled the MacBook computer prototype during an Apple team in 1983, the same year it was renovated again. Its design has evolved from a stone mansion to a Spanish Colonial-style edifice, complete with terracotta-hued roof tiles, stained-glass windows, colorful ceramic stair risers, and fountain surrounds.

In the hands of Marc & Rose Hospitality, the hotel recently underwent a $20 million renovation led by hospitality experts Post Company. The studio sought to retain and express all of this historic character, while adding its own whimsical touches such as scalloped light fixtures and custom dark-wood furniture. It reopened in Fall 2023 to widespread acclaim. The official opening party in January 2024 involved an immersive theater performance by Shonda Rhimes’ IAMA group, which paid homage to La Playa’s storied history and bohemian leanings through a series of live vignettes.

The Rooms

La Playa’s rooms and suites are spread across four levels of the rambling building. None of them are huge, but they ooze cozy character thanks to antique-style wooden furniture, rustic tiled bathrooms, and custom plaster light fixtures. A trio of Poolside Casita rooms open directly onto the outdoor swimming pool and include fireplaces and seating areas.

A handful of Garden Patio rooms on the lower level connect to the beautifully landscaped gardens, and enjoy small terraces partially concealed by the planting. On the upper floors, Ocean View, larger Premier Ocean View, and even more grand Superior Ocean View rooms enjoy sunset vistas, as the majority face west. Meanwhile, Classic rooms overlook the village behind, while the best views are reserved for the three spacious Suites.

The Food & Drink Situation

Some hotel buffet breakfasts can be overwhelming, prioritizing quantity over quality. At La Playa, the selection is carefully curated, ensuring that while there are plenty of options for every eater, everything is cooked and served perfectly. The bite-sized pieces of zesty avocado toast, berry-soaked bread pudding, and locally baked pastries are standouts. Omelette and waffle stations are also constantly manned to feed bigger appetites. Most importantly, champagne is served complimentary all morning—whether you want to mix a mimosa or drink it straight up.

The hotel’s restaurant, Bud’s, is a dark, moody neighborhood stalwart where the atmosphere encourages creative types to exchange ideas and plan collaborations—as they undoubtedly did in La Playa’s early years, too. Favorite American dishes, including oysters, Caesar salad, burger, and steak, are simple but well-executed, while the cocktail menu is more adventurous. Novelly, regulars can reserve their own locker for storing leftover liquor they’ve bought from the bar for their next visit. Also, a 10-minute “Dime Time” offer—during which drinks cost only 10 cents, exact change only—is announced at random as a nod to former proprietor Howard E. “Bud” Allen, who introduced the idea in the 1960s. In the evening, the lobby hosts a wine happy hour of complimentary tipples to encourage guests to gather. After 9 pm, freshly baked cookies are laid out on the reception desk.

The Amenities

This is the kind of hotel designed for a slow vacation. Nooks for reading, pathways for strolling, and furnished patios for sharing stories with friends old and new. When the weather’s warm, secure a poolside lounger early and soak up some rays, while in the cooler months, the best seats in the house are beside the grand fireplace in the lobby, or the fire pits on the bar terrace. There’s no gym, but you’ll receive a decent enough workout walking up and down Carmel’s steep streets. And for mental exercise, the giant chess set awaits.

Several of the hotel’s indoor and outdoor spaces can be reserved for meetings, conferences, weddings, or other events. The Pacific Room, which opens to the terrace, is ideal for larger groups, while the Garden Room and Fireside Room can host more intimate gatherings. Al-fresco dinners, ceremonies, and receptions can be accommodated in the courtyard or behind the arched colonnade of the patio.

Location & Neighborhood

La Playa is positioned in the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea, a short walk to the shops and restaurants on Ocean Avenue, but delightfully far enough away to avoid the other tourists if desired. The property is also three steep blocks from the beach, for strolls along the sand, or the elevated coast road when the tide is in. Part of the town’s charm is the variety of architectural styles of its homes, from fantastical fairytale cottages and Spanish Revival villas to contemporary glass boxes and even Frank Lloyd Wright’s only coastal residence.

Fast Facts

Location: Carmel-by-the-Sea, California, USA

Address: Camino Real &, 8th Ave, Carmel-By-The-Sea, CA 93921

Rating: 3-star

The Vibe: Quirky bohemian chic

Room Count: 75

Starting Rate: $649

Dining: Bud’s bar and restaurant on the property serves a tight menu of American classics from 3-10 pm, and an inventive cocktail menu much later into the night.

Amenities: Outdoor pool, giant chess set, meeting and event spaces, bar and restaurant, free WiFi, room service, champagne breakfast buffet, and shuttle service around Carmel.

Our favorite part of the hotel: The champagne breakfast, served buffet-style with egg and waffle stations, and best enjoyed on the covered terrace overlooking the landscaped grounds.

What’s nearby? This is your chance to live out your Big Little Lies fantasy by driving the Pacific Coast Highway. Point Lobos State Park, Big Sur, Monterey, and Carmel Valley are all within easy reach.

Any personal neighborhood recs? Stroll the quiet streets and ocean-front drive, catch sunset at Mission Ranch Inn, and try Dametra Cafe, Stationæry, or La Bicyclette.

Closest airport: Monterey Regional Airport is less than a 15-minute drive from La Playa, and the hotel offers a free shuttle service, though the number of flights there are limited. San Francisco International Airport services more flights, and lends the excuse to enjoy the scenic drive along the Route 1 Pacific Coast Highway for 2.5-3 hours.

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